Archive for the ‘Pam’s Essays’ Category

This is the India they warned us about

We have officially moved into our new place, and I’ve spent most the week trying, with varying degrees of success, to take care of the necessities: Food, Water, Internet, and Laundry.

Water
Water is trying to kill us. We live in fear of the perfect storm, which in this case can mean accidentally running your toothbrush under the faucet or drinking from a cup that was just rinsed in tap water. We are still unclear on the perimeters and details of these life-threatening scenarios, so we both just assume that all water is evil and walk around clutching our coca-colas like a security blanket. We’ve been here 5 weeks now, and neither of us has fallen ill, so our fear-based strategy appears to be working.

Right now this fear extends to the swimming pool. Did we mention that our new house has a pool, and that the pool is actually inside the house? What the pool guy seems to think are bubbles, I know are mosquito larvae. I also know that in about ten days they are going to fully develop and the house will turn into a bloody feast. The mosquito screens on the windows and the nets that hang over the beds will no longer protect us, but serve to entrap the little bastards. There will be no escape. I can hear the clock ticking. If those eggs are allowed to hatch, we are toast! “Am I getting though to anyone here????”

http://www.mosquitoes.org/LifeCycle.html#anchor31858

From what I can gather the pool filtration system is broken. From what I can gather, the kid in charge of taking care of the pool has absolutely no idea what he’s doing. “Drain the pool,” I say, trying to do the international sign language for “drain the pool” by waving my hands and spinning around as if I’m going down a drain. “Yes, yes, yes,” he smiles, his head wobbles like its about to fall off. Great, we’ve agreed to drain the pool. I give him the “thumbs up sign, because I’m pretty sure that using the “OK” sign would be calling him an asshole. He keeps scooping larvae rafts from the water with the net. “Six monts,” he says. “Water changing every six monts. Only Sunday, Sunday.”

Okay, what I think I’m understanding here is that the water was changed last Sunday, and we have five months and three weeks to go before we can change the larvae infested pool water to clean fresh swimmable water. We are at an impasse.

This is the part where I start to question the logic of having an indoor swimming pool in a city that hovers around 90 degrees most of the time. A place where malaria is serious problem – serious, as in, people die from malaria.

http://www.malariasite.com/MALARIA/MalariaInIndia.htm

Our landlords have left us an excel list of phone numbers. Which is helpful, because since signing the lease and cashing our check, they don’t answer our calls or respond to our emails. There are three different entries with the list with the word “pool” in them. I dial one after the other until someone answers. After a circuitous conversation that leads down several dead end streets, I think I’ve gotten him to agree to come and look at our pool tomorrow.

Food
The food on the shelves of the Indian grocery stores laughs at me. Bags and bags of dried things, I think they’re called…”ingredients,” line the shelves. There are piles of fresh vegetables that I’ve been warned will make us deathly ill if not prepared correctly. I’m not a good cook at the best of times and under these circumstances I decide it’s best to not even try.

I follow up on a lead and email a potential cook. We make plans to meet at the house later that day. She never arrives. I email her the next day and she replies that that our address doesn’t exist. I order food from a local restaurant online. They email back to tell us that our address doesn’t exist.

We are hungry

The next day I try to email the cook detailed directions to our house, but the Internet is down. I attempt to call her but my phone card is out of money. I trek to an Airtel storefront and add money to my card. I dial the cook’s number and get a machine. I try to leave my phone number on her voicemail, but the number is 17 digits long and I can’t remember what it is. I accidentally hang up while scrolling through my phone for my number.

We are still hungry.

Clothing
We have a maid, she has a name but it is more syllables than I can remember, and when I do remember and try to say it…ramala…ramanena, Rachmaninoff…it comes out laughably wrong. She glides around the house like a barefoot sprite, sweeping the floors with a coconut hand broom. Appearing and disappearing.

We rented a washing machine for the new house. Rama and I spent half an hour trying to figure out how the thing worked. I poked and pulled until it began to fill with water and the clothes started spinning. Rama watched the clothes swirl through the window like it was a television set. As soon as the clothes were wet she tried to pry off the top of the washer to get them out. “This is the door,” I said, pointing to the window. She yanked at the door; anywhere she could get a finger-hold. I pointed to the numbers, and the illuminated “Lock” symbol. “Locked, it’s locked.” I pointed to number that were counting backward. “30 minutes” it’ll be finished in “30 minutes. 29 Minutes.”

I went my new office and began to work. Ten minutes later she wandered in dragged me upstairs to the laundry room and tugged on the door to show me it was locked. Adorable. I tried to assure her it was okay, but she came and got me two more times over the next 29 minutes. Less adorable.  I try instead to focus on the jasmine flowers she has strung and pinned in my hair this morning, or the dinner we made together last night when I discovered our stove didn’t work and she lugged hers, along with the gas tank into our kitchen.

A couple hours later I checked in. The washing machine was unplugged and three loads of laundry were hanging on the line. Turns out she’d jacked open the door and hand wrung the first load, then washed the other two loads by hand. She’d never used a washing machine before. Oh the assumptions Americans make.

Internet

It takes three visits from a young man who has never seen a Mac to get our Internet to a place where it doesn’t evaporate as soon as he disappears. He asks if I know Kannada. I don’t have the heart to tell him that I didn’t know Kannada was a language until about four days ago. “No, I don’t know how to speak Karnata,” I say. “Kannada,” he says enunciating every syllable, “Kan-NA-da”.  “We’ll how exactly Miss, are you planning to get along here without speaking Kannada? Most Bangaloreans don’t speak English.”

Finally, someone admits what I’ve suspected all along. A number of locals have indignantly insisted that everyone speaks English, that it is the common language of India. School lessons are taught in English. “Reeeeaaaally????”  I’m pretty sure that the Indians have taken the English language several thousand steps from its motherland, right up to the edge of creating an entirely new patois. Like what the Canadians or Creoles have done to French.

So, if we aren’t naked and starving, and if swarms of mosquitoes haven’t killed us, and provided you can reach us by phone or email, or find someone who agrees that our house actually does exist, even if our address doesn’t…we’d love to see ya.

Friends of Friends of Hollis

FOFOH
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Hollis Hawthorne, a fellow San Franciscan traveling in India, was recently in a very bad motorcycle accident and sadly is in a coma at a hospital in Chennai. Her friends and family have launched a campaign to raise $150,000 to get her back home, where she will have the best chances of recovery at Stanford Medical Center.

Neither of us actually knows Hollis, but we know San Francisco, and when someone needs help, we all pitch in and do what we can. That’s just how we roll. We’re going to make a small donation; and if you are able, we encourage you to do the same. She seems like an amazing person, our hearts go out to all concerned.

To make a donation, or for more info about Hollis, click HERE.

Why Can’t You Be More Like Bhaskar?

Bhaskar and Pamela
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Meet my new BFF, Bhaskar! Our daily conversations go something like this:

P:    I hear your brother was in town yesterday.
B:    Oh, only about 20 kilometers.

P:    How old are your daughters?
B:    Yes Miss, there is an ATM just up here.

To call Bashkar my friend is a bit of a stretch, as he’s being paid to hang out with me. He is however, the only person I speak to on any given day, aside from my husband, which hardly counts; his head is deeply drowning in work right now as he adjusts to his own relocation challenges. So for now, these surreal exchanges are what pass for friendship.

In San Francisco, my life was busy, too busy; filled with people and conversations and 60 or 70 hours a week of work. On Friday nights, Maggie and I would do our radio show, Charm School. I’d then spend the weekend as Pixie, gallivanting around the city committing acts of smart-assery. In India I am the white lady. The white lady who is chauffeured around in an air-conditioned car with tinted windows.  I am the expat housewife who is doing nothing but spending money to put together a house that we’ll live in for this next year.

Bhaskar’s official job title is “Driver,” but basically he is my nanny. His unofficial duties include, but are not limited to; bringing me jasmine flowers for my hair each day, deciphering Indian menus, walking me around temples and parks, escorting me through crowded markets, showing me the best place to buy linens, following me around the store while I shop for linens, helping me pick out linens, carry the linens to the counter for me, and checking the bill for the linens to make sure I’m not being cheated. And then, I’m embarrassed to admit, carrying my new linens to the car, opening and closing the door for me, then driving me home. This is his job and he is good at it, he also appears to enjoy it.

I’ve never been doted on in my life. I am the helper bee, the mama, the teacher, the go-to person. I have no frame of reference for this type of relationship. I’m not sure whether to feel guilty or grateful for these niceties. I do know I’m gearing up to throw a spectacular temper tantrum the next time Phil doesn’t buy me a pony.

Congratulations Slumdog Millionaire!!!

Slumdog Millionaire
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WARNING: This piece is not funny. If you are expecting something funny you will be disappointed. Even I have to take my tongue out of my cheek sometime ; )

We saw Slumdog Millionaire around Xmas time in Sonoma and I admit to bursting into tears halfway into the film. This is truly an amazing piece of cinema with fantastic characters, a great structure and awesome storyline – but that had nothing to do with why I was crying.  While watching the sweeping scenes of radically poor slums, intimidating train stations, and scarred beggar children, I couldn’t help being flooded with a feeling of,  “Oh my God, that is where we’re going to live?”

The India I’ve met this past month is the Slumdog India we are all becoming familiar with, but it is also so, so much more. I’ve visited houses built out of dung, and been mobbed by children trying to snatch candy out of my hands, seen people sleeping in alleyways and cows eating garbage, but even with these difficult attributes, to call India a third world country really doesn’t do it justice. They also have houses, and grocery stores, and highly functioning railway systems, beauty salons and educations. As a whole, people here hardly drink, and drug use seems to be an anomaly. They are dedicated to their family and their gods. They work six days a week. There is horrendous traffic but they seem to never let it get the better of them.

India is as young and curious, as it is ancient and wise. Sure, they don’t seem to know what to do with their trash, and the outlawed caste system still serves to keep people from equal upward mobility, and the water is lethal and there is sewage in some of the streets – but nowhere is perfect. I’ve seen more homeless people in San Francisco than I have in Bangalore, and I’ve felt more anxious walking to my car in the Mission District than I have walking through a crowded market in Delhi, where Phil and I were the only white skinned people we’d seen all day.

I’m not saying that bad things don’t happen here, but I am saying that good things happen too. I get the sense that the Indian people are well aware of their emerging status in the world, and that collectively they will work to protect not only their status, but their visitors as well.  I hope this Oscar win makes it easier for India to take its place at the table.

Would You Like Buttermilk With That Order?

Food is the big problem. It’s not Indian food in general, it’s the specific meals. Breakfast is served at our sort-of hotel. Every day there are new horrors under the promising stainless steel domes. One day there are bright yellow pancakes, watermelon, and vegetable stew. The next day there is yellow dal, puffy white things, and something they call French toast. I’m learning to like it.

At work, Phil’s lunchtime choices at the Adobe cafeteria are limited to “pots of mush,” while mine involve roaming the streets until I find something I recognize as food and pray to the 330,000 Hindu gods that it won’t make me sick.

Tonight we decided to call out for food so we could hide from the world and watch bad movies like good little Americans. It took me half an hour and two trips down to reception to figure out how to dial the phone. When the restaurant finally answered things only got worse.

Everyone in India speaks English. We heard this over and over while preparing for our trip. Everyone here does NOT speak English. No. Not at all.

There are 1652 different languages in India, and 350 of those are considered major languages. English and Hindi are the official languages, and how they communicate with each other. The accents are thick, and the words sound like rubber balls bouncing down stairs. Our communication barrier is compounded by the fact that these other languages are written in the squiggly alphabet, making it impossible to take an educated stab at pronunciation.

After resorting to a fake Indian accent by putting the em-PHA-sis on awkward syl-LA-bles and popping my P’s and T’s, I managed to give our address, phone number and place our order, I hoped.

Time ticked by and no food arrived. Since beginning work in India, Phil has been going in to an office every day; for the past ten years or more he has worked mostly from home. This is a big shift; by Friday evening he hates everybody and everything. He is hungry. He wants food and a Coke – not too much to ask.

Eventually the food arrives, but there is no Coke, and the order had somehow mutated from butter chicken and butter naan, to butter chicken and buttermilk. “WTF… who orders buttermilk with their chicken?” Phil railed.

I am determined to find it impossible to be frustrated with people for not speaking my language, when I am in their country making no attempt to speak theirs. Phil is too hungry to refuse not to get upset. I dump the buttermilk in the sink, have a few bites of butter chicken and wait for breakfast.

No Learning. No Enlightenment.

We embarked on this trip chanting the mantra, “No learning, no enlightenment,” but in spite of this, in the past couple of weeks, there are several things that I have learned:

1. Indian traffic proves a point I’ve spent most of my life trying to make: there don’t need to be rules to for there to be harmony. Traffic here is insane, but what is crazier still is that no-one gets angry. No-one raises their voice. When a tuk-tuk pulls out in front of a car, the car slides around it; when you launch yourself into traffic as a pedestrian, the traffic moves around you like water, not stopping to question, just going with the flow.

2. It is possible to move a twenty-foot length of metal pipe on a bicycle at rush hour.

3. In India it is always rush hour.

4. Decoding the Indian wobble-head thing is impossible. It can mean yes, no, maybe, I don’t care, I am bored, etc., which in my book means that it actually means nothing. It does, however, make Westerners want to eat their own heads.

5. Even monks shop for DVDs and talk on cell phones.

6. Eating dal for breakfast ensures that you won’t get hungry until 4pm.