Archive for March, 2009

Our Un-Holi Night

UnHoliNacht
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The beauty of being in a new country is that seasonal events aren’t fraught with the weight of memory: Diwali doesn’t take you back to the soul crushing family dinners with the relatives whose default dinner discussions are always politics, religion and illness; Janmashtami doesn’t remind you of the time that that asshole surfer dude stood you up, not only ruining your night, but giving you an annual holiday to relive the emotions. But that doesn’t mean that as Holi approached we weren’t weighted with expectations.

They said it would be messy. We were warned that upon leaving the house we’d be bombarded with fistfuls of colors. We’d seen the pictures of pigment-smeared people crowding the streets, ecstatically dancing to pulsating rhythms, moving as one, colors bleeding together, humanity united. This is what we heard and this is what we wanted.

We donned our whitest whites and hit the streets in search of rainbow-streaked adventure. We saw only the occasional group of young men covered with sprays of colored dust, and learned that expectation creates disappointment in any culture: where was the chaos, the music, the drift of colored smoke? Where’s the party dude???

We tried to go to a nightclub that advertised an evening Holi party, but got there just 5 minutes before closing time, and the police were already lined up to with their lathis to clear out the lollygaggers. So we waited in the parking lot for the all the multicolored people to pour out of the club, positioning ourselves so we could pelt them with our secret stash of color.

When the first clubbers stepped into the parking lot, we held our fire: they were all dressed in their best westernized evening wear, devoid of any errant color splotches. At that point we realized we were no longer wannabe Holi players; we were just four stupid white people in a parking lot.

SO, we did what any stupid white people would do: we began hurling the colored powders at each other, right there in front of the homebound nightclubbers and the club-wielding police officers. If this was a holiday for teenagers, then damn it, we were going to behave like teenagers! Then, before we completely exhausted ourselves and our supply of colored powders, we crammed ourselves into a tuk-tuk and bombarded midnight strangers with streaming clouds of color, from one end of Bangalore to the other.

It was the best Holi we ever had… ;)

A nation of over a billion people, and half of them are in my kitchen.

Before we arrived a little more than a month ago, I heard over and over again that there is no such thing as privacy in India. I am a social creature by nature but I’m easily exhausted by humanity.

Turns out, those people were right: there is no such thing as privacy in India. We have Rathnama, our delightful maid/cook who came with the house; her husband, Amitabh; her nephew, Venu; Venu’s adorable baby girl Lakshimi and his adorable baby wife Manisha as well as his brother Tusshar; our driver/nanny/translator Bhaskar; and Shankar who shows up at the house randomly and fixes random things; plus our landlord Satish and his restless five-year old who keep trying to get the pool to stop being green. And these are just the regular players! On any given day, at any given time, you can look up from whatever you are doing and find one or more of these people in your line of sight.

After less than two weeks this parade has come to feel normal. People interact with us and each other with ease, and don’t demand a lot of our attention. There seems to be a built-in respect for humanity, if not space. It might be a function of the necessity for such a large population to get along, or simply the fact that we can barely understand each other; either way the population boom in our lives is surprisingly comfortable.

How To String Jasmine For Pam’s Hair Every Day

This is Rathnama. She takes care of the house and pretty good care of us as well. Every morning she brings a string of jasmine flowers to Pam and ties them into her hair. We thought she bought them at the market, but in fact she makes them herself – here’s how she does it:

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Needless to say, Pam is never going back to a non-jasmine lifestyle. Hopefully one of you, dear readers, will learn from this video, and, when we get back to SF, bring these to Pam every morning.

Video shot with Pam’s cute little FlipVideo recorder. The pink one.

My Beloved Grandmother, Helen Frank, Passed Away Tonight

My Grandmom, Helen Frank, at left, w/ my mom Judy at right:
Grandmom and Mom
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She was kidnaped, through a window by her bed on a snowy night when she was a baby. She was hidden from her real family for years by the other side of the family. When the warring family factions finally reconciled, each side stood on opposite sides of the river; her captors set her down in a little rowboat, pointed it at the other side, and pushed

She was smarter, classier, and funnier than all of you combined. She would not hesitate to call anyone a “southbound end of a northbound horse” if it was deserved. She was an oasis of fun and kindness in an otherwise difficult childhood. She was kind and cheerful to a fault. She was ready to go. She just kept getting tinier, and her body kept failing, one thing after the next. She was not in pain. She was tired. She missed her husband, who died years ago. She wanted to go. And so she was finally able to do so. Bye Grandma and thanks for everything you did :)

This is the India they warned us about

We have officially moved into our new place, and I’ve spent most the week trying, with varying degrees of success, to take care of the necessities: Food, Water, Internet, and Laundry.

Water
Water is trying to kill us. We live in fear of the perfect storm, which in this case can mean accidentally running your toothbrush under the faucet or drinking from a cup that was just rinsed in tap water. We are still unclear on the perimeters and details of these life-threatening scenarios, so we both just assume that all water is evil and walk around clutching our coca-colas like a security blanket. We’ve been here 5 weeks now, and neither of us has fallen ill, so our fear-based strategy appears to be working.

Right now this fear extends to the swimming pool. Did we mention that our new house has a pool, and that the pool is actually inside the house? What the pool guy seems to think are bubbles, I know are mosquito larvae. I also know that in about ten days they are going to fully develop and the house will turn into a bloody feast. The mosquito screens on the windows and the nets that hang over the beds will no longer protect us, but serve to entrap the little bastards. There will be no escape. I can hear the clock ticking. If those eggs are allowed to hatch, we are toast! “Am I getting though to anyone here????”

http://www.mosquitoes.org/LifeCycle.html#anchor31858

From what I can gather the pool filtration system is broken. From what I can gather, the kid in charge of taking care of the pool has absolutely no idea what he’s doing. “Drain the pool,” I say, trying to do the international sign language for “drain the pool” by waving my hands and spinning around as if I’m going down a drain. “Yes, yes, yes,” he smiles, his head wobbles like its about to fall off. Great, we’ve agreed to drain the pool. I give him the “thumbs up sign, because I’m pretty sure that using the “OK” sign would be calling him an asshole. He keeps scooping larvae rafts from the water with the net. “Six monts,” he says. “Water changing every six monts. Only Sunday, Sunday.”

Okay, what I think I’m understanding here is that the water was changed last Sunday, and we have five months and three weeks to go before we can change the larvae infested pool water to clean fresh swimmable water. We are at an impasse.

This is the part where I start to question the logic of having an indoor swimming pool in a city that hovers around 90 degrees most of the time. A place where malaria is serious problem – serious, as in, people die from malaria.

http://www.malariasite.com/MALARIA/MalariaInIndia.htm

Our landlords have left us an excel list of phone numbers. Which is helpful, because since signing the lease and cashing our check, they don’t answer our calls or respond to our emails. There are three different entries with the list with the word “pool” in them. I dial one after the other until someone answers. After a circuitous conversation that leads down several dead end streets, I think I’ve gotten him to agree to come and look at our pool tomorrow.

Food
The food on the shelves of the Indian grocery stores laughs at me. Bags and bags of dried things, I think they’re called…”ingredients,” line the shelves. There are piles of fresh vegetables that I’ve been warned will make us deathly ill if not prepared correctly. I’m not a good cook at the best of times and under these circumstances I decide it’s best to not even try.

I follow up on a lead and email a potential cook. We make plans to meet at the house later that day. She never arrives. I email her the next day and she replies that that our address doesn’t exist. I order food from a local restaurant online. They email back to tell us that our address doesn’t exist.

We are hungry

The next day I try to email the cook detailed directions to our house, but the Internet is down. I attempt to call her but my phone card is out of money. I trek to an Airtel storefront and add money to my card. I dial the cook’s number and get a machine. I try to leave my phone number on her voicemail, but the number is 17 digits long and I can’t remember what it is. I accidentally hang up while scrolling through my phone for my number.

We are still hungry.

Clothing
We have a maid, she has a name but it is more syllables than I can remember, and when I do remember and try to say it…ramala…ramanena, Rachmaninoff…it comes out laughably wrong. She glides around the house like a barefoot sprite, sweeping the floors with a coconut hand broom. Appearing and disappearing.

We rented a washing machine for the new house. Rama and I spent half an hour trying to figure out how the thing worked. I poked and pulled until it began to fill with water and the clothes started spinning. Rama watched the clothes swirl through the window like it was a television set. As soon as the clothes were wet she tried to pry off the top of the washer to get them out. “This is the door,” I said, pointing to the window. She yanked at the door; anywhere she could get a finger-hold. I pointed to the numbers, and the illuminated “Lock” symbol. “Locked, it’s locked.” I pointed to number that were counting backward. “30 minutes” it’ll be finished in “30 minutes. 29 Minutes.”

I went my new office and began to work. Ten minutes later she wandered in dragged me upstairs to the laundry room and tugged on the door to show me it was locked. Adorable. I tried to assure her it was okay, but she came and got me two more times over the next 29 minutes. Less adorable.  I try instead to focus on the jasmine flowers she has strung and pinned in my hair this morning, or the dinner we made together last night when I discovered our stove didn’t work and she lugged hers, along with the gas tank into our kitchen.

A couple hours later I checked in. The washing machine was unplugged and three loads of laundry were hanging on the line. Turns out she’d jacked open the door and hand wrung the first load, then washed the other two loads by hand. She’d never used a washing machine before. Oh the assumptions Americans make.

Internet

It takes three visits from a young man who has never seen a Mac to get our Internet to a place where it doesn’t evaporate as soon as he disappears. He asks if I know Kannada. I don’t have the heart to tell him that I didn’t know Kannada was a language until about four days ago. “No, I don’t know how to speak Karnata,” I say. “Kannada,” he says enunciating every syllable, “Kan-NA-da”.  “We’ll how exactly Miss, are you planning to get along here without speaking Kannada? Most Bangaloreans don’t speak English.”

Finally, someone admits what I’ve suspected all along. A number of locals have indignantly insisted that everyone speaks English, that it is the common language of India. School lessons are taught in English. “Reeeeaaaally????”  I’m pretty sure that the Indians have taken the English language several thousand steps from its motherland, right up to the edge of creating an entirely new patois. Like what the Canadians or Creoles have done to French.

So, if we aren’t naked and starving, and if swarms of mosquitoes haven’t killed us, and provided you can reach us by phone or email, or find someone who agrees that our house actually does exist, even if our address doesn’t…we’d love to see ya.

My Guitar Is Here

Taylor
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I love my vintage Taylor dreadnought, warts and all. So glad it’s finally here!