FIX IT
Being Green
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There, I did it. I took a picture of a flower. Truthfully, the greenery here is amazing. Bangalore is known to be “the garden city,” and India in general has unbelievable plantlife: flowers that look like they came from outer space, trees that have bats and sausages hanging from them, and shrubs that have shades of green we have never ever seen before.
The problem in B’lore is that you can’t really be looking at these things as you walk through the city. You will either get hit by a taxi or fall into a sewer if you are not gauging your every step. And even if you were to notice, the city itself has a desaturating effect: the dust everywhere takes the green off things, making it all rather dull and brownish; and the huge IT corporate buidings fill the periphery with dullness of another kind.
But if you get out of town, or off the main drags, or even stop and plant yourself squarely on some safe patch of city ground, look around, and use your imagination, the mind reels at how gorgeous it all is.
Bhaskar’s Beautiful Family
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Bhaskar, our amazing driver-slash-nanny, invited us to his sister’s home for lunch with their family last Sunday. A simple and delicious meal of naan and lamb meatballs in some ginger coconut curry, she served other people only after Pam and I had finished eating. We were not sure whether that was because we were guests or because there were only enough dishes to serve a few diners at a time; it was lovely in any case.
The flat was quite small, maybe only a couple of rooms, down an alley off a main road near downtown. She said she had lived there for forty years in the same place. Notice the Jesus puja above everyone. A Hindu-style home altar to your chosen God, but in this case instead of an elephant or snake, it is Jesus: Bhaskar’s family has been Catholic for generations.
You can spot Pam in the back row if you look real hard :)
Kumkuma
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Venu came running up the front steps with a handful of red powder and a wooden stem broken from a stick of incense. He went around to the side of the porch and ran some water from the spigot there into his hand and came right back, looking like he was bleeding from an artery, speaking at me in rapid-fire Telugu and pointing frenetically at my forehead with the stick.
This could only mean one thing: it’s time for a makeover !!
He dipped the stick into the thick red goop in his hand; then deftly pressed it to my forehead and removed it again in a single motion, leaving behind this perfectly vertical red mark.
The red stuff is a powder called kumkum, but Venu and his family call it “kumkuma” as they speak Telugu. These marks are, as I understand it, primarily a Hindu custom, and it originated long long ago with blood sacrifices. As messy animal sacrifices became less fashionable, the powdered kumkum eventually took its place; serving the same wide variety of purposes, but without making so much noise. The velvet adhesive dots of various colors and the jewelesque adhesive Bindis are also descended from the same origins. Anyway, these particular kumkum marks indicate to which of the many manifestations of the Hindu goddess you are devoted; in the case of this single vertical line, I think it indicates devotion to Shakti and/or Lakshmi. And though this is a primarily Hindu thing, forehead decoration in general here is for anyone to enjoy.