In Rajasthan, an elaborate and unique moustache is a sign of happiness and prosperity, and if the tips point upwards, then one is said to be closer to God. Or something like that. While in the cities I have been almost every day told that I look like a WWE wrestler called The Undertaker, in Rajasthan I was more often complimented on my facial hair…
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~ Phil
Before landing in Bangalore, but after leaving Delhi we took a honeymoon swing through the Indian state of Rajasthan.
Rajasthan, a place that, until 48 hours before we left, was just another of those far-flung duck-and-cover “sthans” I had never bothered to learn the difference between.
The more we researched, the more excited we were about going. The state of Rajasthan shares its western borders with Pakistan, which made getting to our final destination of Jaisalmer tricky: the local airport had been closed because of the recent “troubles,” dubbed by the Indian media as “26/11.” We decided to drive and spend 2 nights in Jodhpur, for which the distinctive loose-top, tight ankled, riding trousers are named, before moving along to Jaisalmer, the storybook desert city-fortress carved out of sandstone, for an overnight camel trek.
During the extended dance-mix car ride we took turns watching out the window as our driver wove in and out of on coming traffic like he was playing a video game; eventually we pretended to sleep curled up in the back of the hatchback like Labradors.
In Jaisalmer, we booked a luxury tent that has effectively ruined Burning Man for me, at the Ajit Bhawan Palace, which was once home to the royal family of Jodhpur. The palace, like many in India, was turned into a “heritage hotel” after falling into disrepair following Indian Independence, when the new government stopped paying the figureheads across the country just for being fabulous.
Best reality show EVER. Now playing on the National Geographic Channel.
“While a maze of back streets and rooftop labyrinths make Jaipur the ultimate urban jungle, cars, electric wires and one determined monkey catcher make this a dangerous place for the 60-member Galta gang.
In this new 13-part series, the Galta gang ventures outside their peaceful temple lifestyle into the hectic streets of one of the fastest growing cities in the world. With no drought relief in sight, the monkeys must exploit every advantage they have to survive, whether it is sneaking through open windows or swiping fruit from an unattended grocery cart.
Rowdy teenagers Bipin, Yash and Tito are an inseparable trio, diving off lamp posts into a trough full of dirty water, playing rodeo on the backs of the city’s pig population and teasing the stray street dogs. But while the youngsters explore their new playground, alpha male Tarak has the weight of the troop’s survival on his shoulders. Leading the group into Jaipur everyday in search of food is risky.
The situation is even worse for other Galta members when, on patrol for food, Yash, Tito and several other Galta members are snared in a trap and deposited 16 kilometres outside the city. These monkeys are used to dodging taxis and tuk-tuks, not leopards and pythons, and they are uncertain about their new environment. Meanwhile, a young Galta named Kavi pays the price for his risky high-wire act along the power lines, suffering a huge electric shock. Taken to a local animal sanctuary, Kavi’s condition is critical as doctors work hard to save him.
Will the monsoons provide much relief and social stability for the Galta gang? Can Yash, Tito and the others find their way through the jungle and back to Jaipur? Find out in Monkey Thieves !”
~ Phil :)
An Arrival Tale
OK so we made it to India, and as we left the airport for our hotel realized my camera backpack, containing many thousands of dollars in photgraphic and audio gear, was missing. The driver waited while a very nice gentleman from the airport helped reverse-navigate through security quite fast, and we found the missing cargo. We returned to the car and the gentleman lingered just long enough for us to realize he expected (and quite deserved) a tip. We handed him what seemed like a reasonable 10 INR tip and drove away. However, we later checked the value of the tip on the iPhone, and in U.S. currency we had tipped this man roughly 20 cents. ..
Two Friends, a Bullwhip, and a Wedding
Our dear freind Aaron Green had already been in India for a month, as had our mutual friend Melanie, and we were fortunate to be able to intersect with them on our first full evening out. They had come for the wedding of a work colleague, and the wedding families had kindly insisted we be included at the final night’s dinner table. The first of many kindnesses of a really lovely evening. Anyway, Aaron arrived at our hotel carrying a bullwhip and two riding crops; the security men at the hotel gate were concerned, and apparently put Aaron and his “souvenirs” through quite the ringer before allowing them entry :) We had a fantastic evening (bullwhip optional), but Pam is the real writer here and I will leave such things to her. Really just testing WordPress.
~ Phil
