Archive for the ‘Photographs’ Category

Garbage

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Garbage is a huge problem. This photo was taken in Port Blair while waiting for the ferry to take us to Havelock Island, but it could have been taken anywhere in India. Not a day goes by when we don’t catch at least one debilitating snootfull of the stuff.

To those neo-spiritualists looking to India for enlightenment, I point here. Maybe we can start with public sanitation, and work up more gradually to the soul?

All smart-assery aside, it is difficult to seriously criticize a nation of over a billion people, largely employed, many of whom are barely partially literate, and who speak any of hundreds of different languages; a nation as peaceful and tolerant, both inwardly and outwardly, as India. There are clearly some solutions in play here, even if they are hard for an outsider to see. If there is an evident garbage problem, if there may be a caste-driven mindset of, “someone else will do it,” even if the final “someone else” in that chain is a COW, literally a sacred cow, who am I to say it is not the least problematic of available options at this time? Just don’t call it enlightenment… yet :)

Cab Interior

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Break time for this Port Blair cabbie, sorting through his CD’s in the passenger seat of his Ambassador. Cab interiors are a world unto themselves, every surface covered with stuff that the cabbie loves. Not uncommon is the presence of flowers, one bouquet here, but I have seen entire dashboards covered with ’em.

Portrait

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People are the best subjects, and in India, they are the best anywhere. They love the camera and the camera loves them. And turnabout is fair play: we are often approached by locals here to have a picture taken, sometimes with them in the shot, sometimes on our own, simply because we are white. Maybe also because we are American, maybe because we are unusual, but in every case it is a charming and rewarding exchange. A serious dose of extreme travel would be a great tonic for the entrenched and narrow-minded in our country…

Anyway, this photo was taken en route to Chennai, at a highway stop for some sweet, hot, chai. Yum.

POTD (Photo Of The Day) !

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There is no way to take a bad photograph of kids in India. They are gorgeous, mischievous, bold and charming, and they know exactly what to do when they see a camera. No matter how many are cramming together for a photo, they know just how to fit in the frame. The camera adores them.

Pam took this particularly lovely photo of a kid near the temple stage at an Ugadi celebration using the Canon 5D.

Happy Ugadi !

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Today is Ugadi, which ushers in the New Year, but only for Hindus in two of the thirty-two Indian states: Karnataka and Utter Pradesh. There are more than 30 different versions of the New Year in this country – I’m not sure that even Indians can keep track of them all. All week we’ve been trying to gauge the importance of the holiday through our filter of Christmas? Easter? Thanksgiving? Presidents Day? But like most of India, it falls outside any familiar reference point.
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chalk
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We got up this morning and the front of house was decorated with flower garlands and colorful chalk drawings. Our maid/cook/helper/nanny, Rathnama, brought me into her quarters to show me the sweet bread she was cooking for the celebration.

This was the first time I’d seen her living space. It was smaller than any of the other rooms in this obscene villa we’re renting here in Bangalore, including most of the bathrooms.

Normally when the guilt of good fortune kicks up I can quell it quite easily with a stiff dose of gallows humor, but there in that tiny room with Rathnama, her husband, her niece, nephew, and their baby all sitting on the floor preparing for the festivities, there wasn’t room for anything, least of all the bad jokes that would usually be darting though my head.

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I smiled and kissed babies and tasted the treats, and wished them all a happy Ugadi; then, despondent, I climbed three floors to my air conditioned bedroom, slipped back into bed and spent the next two hours trying to sleep off my white guilt.

To be here as an American it is impossible not to feel the accident of your fortune. Technically, I have nothing, but I was lucky enough to be born in a place where my nothing is worth a lot more than their nothing. I’m guessing that in Ugadi, as in most significant celebrations, there is an element of reflection involved; and today I did little else.

Jaggery

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After meals it is common to have a bit of fennel seed mixed with various other items. Sometimes it is candy-coated fennel, others it is for you to mix yourself. Crystallized sugar is common: take a spoonful of fennel into your palm, then a spoonful of sugar crystals, pop it all in your mouth, and… mmm :)

In this case, we have a tray with toothpicks, fennel seeds, and jaggery, served at the Punjabi Times restaraunt on Bannerghatta Road. Best combo yet :)